See-through plastic and short skirts were on Exhibit at Burberry Saturday as the quintessentially British brand gave itself a youthful shot,
while Jonathan Anderson offered women a countryside-inspired “sanctuary”.
Under the new stewardship of Marco Gobbetti — previously chief Executive of French luxury brand Celine — Burberry Autumn/Winter 2018 collection proved it was possible to expertly combine legacy with a dash of boldness and a hint of fantasy.
The Typical audience of celebrities and VIPs — from Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell to it-girl Lennon Gallagher — squeezed into the 18th century Old Sessions House to watch plastic-clad models strut down the catwalk in a range of colours and shapes. The plastic, always see-through, came in a variety of colours, from antique yellow to pink and turquoise.
1 look included of a soft-touch plastic anorak worn against the Bare skin beneath a laid-back soft camel leather jacket and accessories with gold sandals. Another saw the identical cushioned plastic anorak layered over a heavy-wool tartan skirt. Flowy bohemian dresses were dwarfed under clashing tartan trench coats in another one. Bailey also used English lace to craft long, sensual dresses, yet also tapped into streetwear with baseball caps — although there was no mistaking Burberry’s emblematic tartan.
Calm before the storm
Meanwhile, British fashion designer Anderson offered an antidote to What he described as growing “hysteria” with his new collection, providing women a “sanctuary”.
Emphasising relaxation, though not without elegance and even a bit of impertinence. Anderson’s shows are among the very closely-followed in London Fashion Weeks and the queue outside the door was like a who’s who of British style.
“The main idea was to sort of earth everything,” said Anderson, who Is also artistic director for the Spanish accessories manufacturer Loewe, owned by LVMH. He said the designs were meant to show a “stillness” so that “no matter how hysterical things become everything will always have a ground level”. The collection was “like a refuge where it is calm before the storm,” he said. “I think we get very hysterical. I believe media make us hysterical and I think sometimes you have to return to basics.” The designs had a countryside feel to them, with plenty of comfortable dresses going below the knee and practical shoes that looked like walking boots.
The palette also had an earth-like quality with sky blue, pistachio Green, dark red and leather colours. Anderson is a fan of paradoxes: the collection was both contemporary and classical, wise and bold, mixing classic corset-like designs with sleeveless t-shirts. Anderson, the son of former Ireland rugby international Willie Anderson, will be presenting a collection created for the Japanese manufacturer Uniqlo next week. “I am obsessed by them. I wear their clothes on a daily basis,” he said. “When they approached me it was like it was a no-brainer.”
Giorgio Armani at the Emporio Armani show, along with TopShop and Versus Versace. The start of London fashion Week hit a small snag however as protesters urged Burberry to denounce the use of fur and promote animal rights, shouting “shame on you”.
London Fashion Week will comprise 80 catwalks bringing in 5,000 buyers, journalists and VIP guests, until Tuesday. (AFP)